El Centro: rentals and area guide

El Centro wraps around the town's bay. Playa Principal is the beach in front of it; to the east the sand continues into Playa Marinero and then the long open beach of Zicatela, and to the west the coast turns rocky toward the coves of Manzanillo and Puerto Angelito and the residential streets of Rinconada. Behind the beach, the town climbs uphill to Carretera 200, the coastal highway, which is where most colectivos and taxis pass.

• Playa Principal and the AdoquínThe heart of the area, at the bottom of the hill.
• ZicatelaA walk along the bay past Playa Marinero, or a short taxi ride.
• Rinconada and CarrizalilloA short taxi ride west.
• Airport (PXM)Usually about 10 minutes by taxi.

Listings sometimes use "Centro" for anything near the bay, so check the map pin and how far up the hill it sits.

Playa Principal is the town beach and still a working one. The fishing boats (pangas) come in during the morning, and you can watch the catch being unloaded and sold. Boat trips along the coast leave from here too. The bay is sheltered, so the water is usually calm enough to swim, though you share it with the boats: swim away from where they land and come in.

Manzanillo, a small cove at the western end of the bay, and its neighbor Puerto Angelito are calmer still and popular with families. At the eastern end, Playa Marinero is where the bay meets Zicatela. It is quieter than the main beach, but the surf builds as you walk east.

Zicatela itself is not a swimming beach: the waves are powerful and the currents strong, even on days that look calm. Go to watch the surfers, and swim in the bay. Calm water still changes with the swell, so keep an eye on children in every cove.

Almost everything. The Adoquín has restaurants, cafés, ice cream shops, souvenir stores and bars, and it is at its liveliest in the evening. The Benito Juárez market is where residents buy fruit, vegetables, meat and fish, and its small eateries are a good place for breakfast or a set lunch. Banks, ATMs, pharmacies and a Bodega Aurrera supermarket are also downtown, which makes El Centro practical for anyone who cooks or needs errands done.

For a bigger supermarket, the Chedraui on Avenida Hidalgo is a short taxi ride. The beaches of Rinconada and Zicatela are close enough for a half-day trip and back for dinner on the Adoquín.

Space downtown is tight, so rentals are mostly apartments, studios, small hotels and guesthouses, with fewer houses with gardens and private pools than in Rinconada or Bacocho. Some buildings higher up the hill have terraces with a view over the bay. Our pages on apartments for rent and hotels explain what to expect from each. Before you book, ask the owner:

• NoiseRooms near the Adoquín can hear the bars on weekends, and rooms on the main roads hear traffic. Ask which way the bedroom faces.
• The hillStreets climb steeply from the bay. Check how far up the place is and whether there are stairs, especially with luggage or limited mobility.
• Air conditioningWith buildings close together and little shade, it matters, above all from May to October.
• PoolMany downtown places have none, or a small shared one. If a pool matters, confirm it.
• ParkingStreets are narrow and busy. If you are driving, ask whether parking is included.

High season runs roughly from November to April, with peaks at Christmas and New Year, Easter week and in July and August, when downtown fills with Mexican families. The rainy season, about June to October, brings afternoon storms and quieter streets. Booking on this site is direct with the owner, with no platform fee, so you can settle these questions before paying. For more detail, read our El Centro rental guide.

El Centro is the easiest place in Puerto Escondido to live without a car. You walk to the beach, the market and the restaurants, and colectivos and taxis pick up along Carretera 200 for Zicatela, La Punta, Rinconada and Bacocho. Taxis are cheap for short trips; agree on the price before you get in. A car is more trouble than help downtown and is only worth it for day trips along the coast.

The airport is about 10 minutes away by taxi; our guide to getting from the airport to your rental covers the options. After dark, take a taxi back from Zicatela rather than walking the beach.