Rinconada: rentals and area guide

The coast of Puerto Escondido runs from Zicatela in the east, past Playa Principal and the old town, to a rocky, higher stretch in the west. Rinconada sits on that western side, between the coastal highway (Carretera 200) and the sea. El Centro is on one side; Bacocho, another residential area with a long open beach, is next door to the west. As everywhere in town, listings use the name loosely, so check the map pin rather than the label.

• El Centro and the AdoquínA short taxi ride.
• ZicatelaA short taxi ride, a little longer in holiday traffic.
• BacochoRight next door.
• Airport (PXM)Usually about 10 minutes by taxi, which makes arrival and departure days easy.

Carrizalillo is a small cove at the bottom of a long, steep staircase. The water is calm on most days, good for swimming and, when the sea is flat, for snorkeling, and the small waves are where many surf schools give beginner lessons. A few palapas on the sand sell drinks and food. The cove is small, so it fills up by late morning in high season and on Mexican holidays; go early. The climb back up in the midday heat is the real effort of the day, so bring water.

Puerto Angelito and Manzanillo are two neighboring coves on the El Centro side of Rinconada. They are sheltered and shallow near the shore, which makes them the usual choice for families with small children, and they get busy on weekends.

Calm does not mean risk-free. Conditions change with the swell, especially in the rainy season, so watch children closely and stay out when the waves are bigger than usual. The open beaches nearby are a different story: Bacocho and Zicatela have strong currents and are for walking and watching, not swimming. Our guide to the beaches and where to stay near each one compares them all.

Daily life happens on Boulevard Benito Juárez. Along it and the streets just off it you will find coffee shops and breakfast places, restaurants, small supermarkets, pharmacies, laundries and a few gift shops, so most errands can be done on foot. Evenings are calm: dinner, maybe a drink, and most places close at a reasonable hour.

For a big grocery run, the Chedraui on Avenida Hidalgo and the Benito Juárez market in El Centro are a short taxi ride away. The market is where you buy fruit, vegetables and fresh fish, and it is worth one morning even if you cook little.

Rentals here lean toward comfort: houses with gardens and private pools, condos in gated complexes with a shared pool, apartments, and some larger villas near the cliffs with ocean views. That is why Rinconada comes up so often for family vacation rentals and why our page on houses for rent spends time on it. A few things are worth asking the owner before you pay:

• Distance to the stairs"walking distance to Carrizalillo" can mean three minutes or fifteen. Check the pin, and remember you walk back uphill.
• Main avenue or side streetRooms facing Boulevard Benito Juárez hear traffic. Side streets are quieter.
• The poolWith children, ask whether it is private or shared, how deep it is and whether it is fenced.
• Air conditioningIt matters most from May to October. Ask which bedrooms have it.
• ParkingIf you rent a car, ask about a space inside the gate.

High season runs roughly from November to April, with peaks at Christmas and New Year, Easter week and again in July and August, when Mexican families travel. The best houses near the coves go early for those dates. Booking on this site is direct with the owner, with no platform fee, so you can ask all of the above before you commit. Our Rinconada rental guide goes deeper into the types of homes.

You do not need a car for daily life. Taxis are easy to find on the main avenue and on the highway and are cheap for short hops to El Centro, Zicatela or La Punta; agree on the price before you get in. Colectivos along Carretera 200 cost even less. A rental car is useful mainly for day trips along the coast, and some houses have parking for one.

At night, take a taxi back from Zicatela rather than walking the highway. With small children, a taxi to Puerto Angelito or Manzanillo is often easier than carrying everything down the Carrizalillo stairs.

If the surf and the bars are the point of your trip, Zicatela is the better base and Rinconada is a good place to come for a swim.